The quiet beauty of Central Greece in December
The summer of 2024 felt like it slipped right through our fingers. We had sold our house in the Netherlands and needed to move out by September. That meant our last summer was spent downsizing—selling most of our belongings while still working full-time at the office. We watched the rare Dutch sun through the windows. Because the Netherlands isn’t famous for its summers, it was a rare occasion that we could feel the warmth of the sun actually on our faces. The race against the coming winter had begun. It felt like we were living our own episode of ‘Game of Thrones’—“brace yourselves, winter is coming”.
A quiet winter by the sea
The previous months had been chaotic—moving out, relocating jobs, and taking care of family emergencies—what we needed most was a quiet place to breathe. While the roadtrip through the Balkans was great fun and full of adventure, it drained our batteries more than we’d like to admit.
We found a great beach house where we could stay for a month. Its hidden gem wasn’t in its typical interior but in its breathtaking view of the sea, its warm and welcoming hosts, and its perfect location. The house was in Kalipso, near Arkitsa, a sleepy summer village that, apart from a two locals, was nearly deserted in the winter. And that was exactly what we needed.
A magical moment occurred while having breakfast; dolphins appeared, leaping gracefully in the distance. It felt surreal—their effortless movement through the waves mirrored the sense of calm we longed for.
Unfortunately, we discovered quickly the waste—especially plastic—has become also a major issue in Greece. What was once a lovely, remote beach was now full of litter. On some pristine shores, the waste was so overwhelming that it was impossible to see the sand beneath. This was our first time we did noticed so much waste in Greece. Perhaps it’s because winter cleaning isn’t a thing, or simply because we found ourselves in a less touristy area.
Exploring the heights
The village was still asleep, but the surrounding landscapes were full of experiences waiting to be discovered. We set out to explore and attempted to summit one of the peaks in the Parnassus mountain range. Starting from Tithorea, a small village build against the mountains, we crossed a deep gorge. After coming out of the gorge, the steep ascent didn't stop until we reached the tree line. There, we were rewarded with a panoramic view of the valley below and the steep gray cliffs leading all the way to the peak.
With shorter days and a demanding 20-kilometer trip to reach the summit at 2,457 meters, we realized continuing wasn’t the most reasonable choice. At around 1,000 meters, the gray clouds began to roll in. Taking it as our sign to head back, we started the descent. Back in the quiet village, an elderly woman stopped to speak with us in Greek. Though we couldn’t understand her, we pieced things together using Google Translate. Smiling, she said, ‘It’s okay to not understand each other. I can see in your eyes that you are kind people.’ And we saw the same in hers.
The Parnassus mountain range offers more than stunning nature. On the far side of this the mountain range lies Delphi, an important place in Greek history. In ancient Greek mythology, Delphi was known as the navel of the world. According to the ancient Greek myth, Zeus set two eagles free to find the center of the world. They soared through the skies westward and eastward and their paths crossed in Delphi.
A place we needed to visit in all its glory. Along the E4 trail, we soaked in the Greek myths as we hiked through the town and up into the mountains. This path leads to unforgettable views of Delphi’s ruins, including the ancient stadium tucked between the mountains, making the climb more than worth it.
Warm retreat
We managed to escape the storm that headed toward the northern path of Greece, but we still caught its tail. Although we escaped the floods, dark clouds and sea winds replaced the Greek sun, bringing colder, gloomier days. Thankfully we found the perfect medicine; the thermal baths of Thermopylae. There wasn’t a better way to heat us up than slipping into the warm, around 40°C, water while the rain was gently falling down on us. The formations created by the sulphur were nature in its most creative form. And as for the smell of sulfur? Trust me - you will get used to it!
The storm cooled the area down, but the sun quickly reclaimed its throne. Sunny days returned, immediately bumping up the temperature. Winter was not yet coming and therefore it was the perfect time to return to the mountains we loved so much. To wrap up this cheese Game of Thrones theme, we hiked up to the Iron Throne itself - an Iron Thorne replica on a spectacular viewpoint overlooking the valleys of Pavliani. Build out of real steal, it’s still a mystery to us how anyone managed to transport this massive piece of art high up these mountains.
From the quiet sea to lively Athens
Fully rested and batteries recharged, it was time to swap the remote village for the capital of Greece, Athens. We couldn’t have had a starker contrast, leaving behind our two quiet neighbours for a city of 3.6 million people. After a month of hearing nothing but waves, watching dolphins, and breathing in the salty sea air, we had to adjust to the city’s traffic, energy, and the constant aroma of Greek food.
A local advised us to arrive early at Athens’ main attraction, the Acropolis. ‘This will give you a head start before the crowds,’ he said, explaining that the large tour groups typically begin their visits after hotel breakfasts are served. Listening to his advice, we managed to enjoy the Acropolis almost entirely to ourselves. Shortly after, we found ourselves in a magical moment, watching the sunrise on this special place. The warm colors of the sun’s rays slowly lit up the white marble of the Acropolis, creating a scene that was hard to capture.
Although the Acropolis is truly a worthy representation of Athens, there’s so much more to discover. Wandering through the streets of Monastiraki, we were inspired by handmade street art driven by Greek history. Just a short walk away, the little boutiques tucked into the alleys of Plaka displayed many unique and handcrafted items.
We also had the chance to witness the changing of the guards at the ‘Tomb of the Unknown Soldier’. This grave symbolizes all Greek soldiers who died during wars and conflicts. The guards, the so called 'Evzonen' are wearing traditional uniforms.
For those looking for an escape, the narrow streets of Anafiotika offer a peaceful retreat. While it has become more popular thanks to Tripadvisor, it’s still easy to get lost in the maze of authentic white houses and their colorful gardens if you visit at the right time. And for nature lovers like us, Athens offers plenty of green spaces, from the Zappeion Garden and the National Botanical Gardens to Philopappos Hill. The latter is perfect for a climb and rewards you with one of the best views of the Acropolis you can find. Athens is a city that has something for everyone—even for people like us, who don’t typically enjoy big cities.
